Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Shepherds, Oxcarts and Sleeping Dogs


These are just a few of the things that we dodged in our minivan tour of Nepal during the six days on the road. In all, we covered nearly 1,500 Nepal Miles. Imagine driving for that long on curvy, unmaintained forest service roads and you'll get an idea for the scale and experience of it. Our flat tire count for the journey ended up being five.

During that time we visited 15 schools, and met with nearly 100 students. It was absolutely life changing, and I just have to say again that ANSWER is really doing fantastic work in Nepal. Check them out. And, since I began the volunteer work with their students the morning after I arrived, and then I returned to Joanie, Megan and Alyson, I haven't been alone yet!

But I digress. The story today is about the roads. And the kids. And some other miscellaneous things I've learned about Nepal along the way. The first thing is to point out that less than 5% of the population of Nepal have cars. If you count motorcycles you probably get to 8%. So, the roads are owned by bicycles, pedestrians, cows, dogs, roosters, oxcarts, shepherds and rickshaws. 95% of the other vehicles that we saw on the road were either buses, vans for hire or transport trucks. So close your eyes and imagine a Nepalese "highway" and what it's like when you approach a town at 50 miles per hour. The street is filled with everything but cars. We don't slow down, but our driver Sumar just lays on the horn (as is the custom) to warn the people of our impending approach. The people and even animals have somehow learned to move out of the way JUST in the nick of time. It is absolutely one of the scariest things I've ever experienced! Well, at least it was the first few times, then I just came to accept it as the way it is! And somehow it works. (Kathmandu traffic is even crazier. In a future blog post I will talk a little more about that.)

Now about the animals. Virtually everone in Nepal has a "pet" - a buffalo, cow, goat or rooster. At least one, sometimes 100. And none of the animals are kept inside or in pens or cages. So all of them roam free through the towns and villages to eat and socialize and then apparently they return to their homes at night. I'm pretty sure that I saw more animals than people in the tour of Western Nepal.

The children are amazing. I have been so very touched by all of them. Many of the towns where the students live, there is no electricity or running water so their lives are very simple, to put it mildy. At all schools, no matter the location, each child is required to wear a uniform. The sponsor provides one, and the family provides one. At each school, I get to work with one or two students to help them read and reply to the letters from their sponsors. ANSWER is unique in that the sponors have a direct relationship with the particular child whose education they are paying for. Twice a year the students write the sponsors letter, and twice a year the sponsors respond. The kids always send a picture that they have drawn - sometimes a Hindu god or goddess, a drawing of the farm at their house, a drawing of one of their pets, or something like that. I can not say enough about my experience working with the kids. The student pictured at right with her mother and I insisted on buying me a mango juice. She ran home to get her mother, who could speak no English, but they just smiled and somehow we communicated. It was amazing considering that her family probably earns around $1,000 per year..

I hope to join Som and the rest of the ANSWER gang on their trip to Eastern Nepal sometime after the Dasain and Tihar festivals in late October or early November. What a great way this has been to see the countryside! I never would have gone to such remote places without them.

Nepali food customs are very simple. Breakfast is simple: always tea, maybe a boiled egg or something else small. Lunch and dinner consist of rice, lentils, cooked greens and what they call "pickles", but what I think is something like a specialty salsa. It is served on a beautiful silver tray with each portion occupying it's own place on the tray. Once you start eating and are getting close to done, the woman who's been cooking will come around to give you more of whatever you want, for as long as you can eat. It's like a Nepali "all-you-can-eat" except that when you eat all you can for as long as I've been here, youa little tired of it. It is prepared with loving care, and best of all it's all cooked so you're pretty assured to not get sick by eating it. It's quite a satisying meal, and especially conventient for a vegetarian like me. In the rural areas we weren't even given menus as Dal Bhat (as it's called) is the only thing that is served. If you'd lie you can order mutton on the side.

Friday morning - assuming that Megan's luggage arrives as scheduled from Singapore tomorrow - the four of us (Joanie, Alyson, Megan and I) - will fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara to begin our trek on Saturday morning. It will be a twelve day adventure, and I'm unsure if I'll be able to post any blog updates during that time. If not, know that I will be enjoying the remote regions of the Himalayas with some amazing people, and the 3 Sisters Adventures. We'll be returning by van to Kathmandu on the morning of October 10 after celebrating Dasain with the Chhetri sisters. More on that adventure later...

Pray for the end of the monsoon in Nepal!

With love,
Pam

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Life is Beautiful

These are the words that Som, my new Nepali friend, muttered yesterday morning as we were leaving our hotel at 4:00 am in a monsoon. Of course, we were leaving that early to make up for lost time as the main north-south highway had been closed unexpectedly. I am learning to accept Nepali time, and even enjoying it quite honestly. My guides (three of them: Som, Bal and Kamal) keep asking if I'm going crazy because Nepal doesn't operate on Western time. I love not having a schedule to stick too! So, on our way to our destination we got a flat tire, and then another road was closed. That was a 300 mile detour. Oh well...such is life here, and I am not bothered because I have nowhere to be at any specific time.

The work that we are doing is amazing. I am traveling with ANSWER-Nepal, a U.S. based organization that sponsors "needy, bright kids with parental support" and pays for their private school tuition. It's a brilliant program, seriously. Check out the website above for more information, and even on how you can sponsor a kid and change their life for about $250 per year. I visited about 15 schools in 10 different villages in my unbelievabe tour of Western Nepal.

We have traveled about 1,000 miles in five days. In the last two days we have had FOUR flat tires. I don't think I've had that many flat tires in my life, but it's most certainly the result of the roads (which are terrible). Again, we pull up to someone's house, drink tea, talk with the family while the driver fixes the tire. It's much different than AAA, and much more cordial, I think.

Working with the children is absolutely amazing. In every single one of the villages that we have gone to I have not seen one other white person. The kids look at me like I'm an alien, then the smile, put their hands together in prayer position and bend their heads and say "namaste." I have so many photos of children that have touched my heart forever. Hopefully I can upload some of them soon (but not tonight as my internet cafe closes in five minutes). They all want their photos taken and then I show them on my digital camera. It's the most amazing piece of technology they have ever seen.

Tonight we are in Nepalganj, a small town near Lumbini where Lord Buddha was born. (They all like to remind me of that). Tomorrow we will visit two schools and then head back to Kathmandu, of couse, that is a schedule change because another road to western Nepal has been damaged by the monsoons. I'll bet this is our 12th schedule change...

UPDATE: Last night as I had just typed the above copy and was literally JUST pressing publish, the power failed. So here I am again, on my dial up connection, in beautiful Nepal. And, it just took me 45 minutes to get to the page to hit publish again. If you're reading this, it worked!


Ah, life is beautiful. And, not living by my watch is pretty magnificent too!

Monday, September 15, 2008

Safe in Hong Kong

What a journey it's already been! Had a tearful, joyful send off with Scott, Angie, Annie, Chrystal and Joanie. And Sadie. It has been very hard to say goodbye to family and friends over this past week, but today (yesterday?) was especially tough. I'm grateful to all of your support that has given me the strength and courage to take this leap. Thank you to all of you.

Safely in Hong Kong, I am suffering from a terrible headache - probably the result of dehydration, jetlag, extreme sleepiness and too many vodkas in the airport send off. I am feeling very "out of my body" and have decided to try to stay awake for these ten hours before my transfer to Kathmandu. Not much to report as yet, except the fact that I'm typing means that it was a safe flight. Good news!

OH, and for the record Cathay Pacific rocks. Good food, a digital movie, TV and music selection. Comfortable seats (relatively) and adjustable headrests. Made the 14.5 hour flight tolerable.

Off to walk. Sitting is making me sleepy. Must stay awake...

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Losing Time

Perhaps this is just a funny coincidence, but maybe it's a sign... This morning I was packing my bag and my watch fell off. Literally just fell off. The band didn't break, it just kind of "unsnapped" at the hinge of the watch face. At first, I thought it had broken and I was upset. Then I started to laugh. A few months ago I had an epiphany that in order for me to get all I could get out of this trip I was going to need to "let go of time." If you've talked to me in person in the last three months or so, you've undoubtedly heard me use those exact words. Isn't the universe hilarious?? In my Seattle life, I tend to be a busy body. My schedule is usually full of fun social engagements. I love to plan dinner parties. I'm always organizing something. Then there are the special weekends that are dedicated to one or two people that I plan months in advance...

This journey for me is about letting go of time in a couple of ways. First, just not relying on my Outlook calendar to direct my life will be a big accomplishment. Second, literally letting go of "Western" time, and that foreign life isn't going to work according to my watch. (I'm sure this will come in handy at the Delhi train station.) Perhaps the universe has a pretty spectacular sense of humor, and I am on the receiving end of a hilarious, karmic joke. I am going to have to relax into my new surroundings with the peace of a yogi, which sounds pretty wonderful to me.

With love,
Pam

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Fenceposts

Many people have asked me to post the itinerary for my trip. While nothing is really set in stone yet, what I do have are scheduled flights, or what I like to call them - "fenceposts." Here is what those look like:

September 14 - Depart Seattle for Kathmandu (via LA & Hong Kong)

September 16 - arrive Kathmandu

September 23 - Alyson & Megan arrive in Kathmandu to join me on the trek

September 27 - Begin 12 day Annapurna Sanctuary trek in Nepal with 3 Sisters Adventures

October 12 - Say goodbye to friends...

November 17 - Kathmandu to Bangalore, India

December 8 - Angie arrives in Bangalore!

February 1 - Delhi, India to Bangkok, Thailand

March 31 - Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam to Berlin, Germany (with a visit to Poland to see relatives with my mom)

April 14 - Berlin to Los Angeles, CA

April 15 - LA to Guatemala City, Guatemala

June 9 - Begin a 10 day Parsons GoodWorks tour in Costa Rica (you're invited!)

June 21 - Begin a second 10 day EcoTeach tour of Costa Rica (with my niece Alanna)

July 8 - San Jose, Costa Rica to LA

July 9 - LA to the Red Mountain Spa in St. George, Utah (via Las Vegas)

July 13 - Return HOME!

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Change is hard

As I sit at my desk at work clearing up all the loose ends and trying to leave things in order, I am feeling very sad. Isn't that a strange thing? I'm about to embark on the most exciting adventure of my life, and I'm sad. Am I scared? No. Am I nervous? A little. Sad? Definitely. Change is hard. I have a great life in Seattle. A wonderful, comfortable house. An amazing job with people and clients that I love. An amazing dog who I love more than anything. Good health. An active lifestyle. The love of family and the world's best friends. If you know me well at all you know that I lean towards optimism. Sadness is uncomfortable. And, it's OK. And, really, there is no other way for me to feel right now. I am leaving everything that is comfortable and oh so good. And jumping into the great unknown. The land of bugs, and leeches, and germs, and strangers, and... Yes, here I come back to my center... adventure, wonder and surprise. Everything is going to work out just as it is intended to work out. I will have good days and bad days. In the end, I know that this is exactly where I am supposed to be. And, even though change is hard... often what we need in life is to jump off the tracks of our comfortable existence and into something unfamiliar. I am the only one responsible for my own happiness, and I am jumping, with eyes wide open, into the possibilities of the unknown. I am excited to share this journey with you.

With love,

Pam