Authentic India & New America

Blogging is becoming a bit of a chore. I think it's that the weather is really hot and the internet cafe's are even hotter. Sorry for my infrequent updates, but trust me...I'm safe and having a great time!

Today, Gerdien and I will leave Auroville. It's an interesting "intentional" community designed to be a peaceful place for people of the world to flourish, and respect each other. Currently, there are about 2,000 full time residenst with about 2/3 of them being foreigners representing 40 countries! The golden orb at left is the Matrimandir, or the "soul of Auroville" that has a very special meditation chamber inside that we got to visit. We've been here a week now, and we've had an interesting time just trying to elbow our way into the flow of the town. Since it's not really designed to be a "tourist" destination, and instead a place where people come to live and participate in the chores of life - farming, organizing, creating arts and crafts, running a restaurant or guest house, you have to really work to find all the locations of classes and concerts. BUT once you do it's really fantastic! There are probably at least a dozen (or more?) courses per day from which you can choose to enrich your mind, soul or body. I chose yoga, pilates, music and a class on "Finding my Healing Voice." That was a fun one, but I'm glad there is not a video for me to relive my singing in front of the group! If I ever get the chance, Auroville would be a very interesting - and affordable - place to spend 6-12 months. Next time...

Gerdien and I took a scooter ride through Auroville and Pondicherry and it was a really great experience of authentic Indian life. We drove slow, took lots of photos and got off the bike a few times to talk to the local people. At one stop, Gerdien slipped and scraped her foot and some local women and children came running and insisted on tending to her wound. It was a great entry into a wonderful moment in India. With this group of 12, we laughed, talked as best we could, and they even fed us some lukewarm fish that had probably been sitting on the counter for a few days... ugh. These are the moments that you hope you never encounter because it is SUCH a warm act of kindness and generosity coming from these people who have so little that you really just feel terrible to say no. So, we said yes, and about a day and a half later I had a little "Delhi belly" problem. Oh well... the small cost of a wonderful encounter. And look at these beautiful children - I can't believe I didn't tuck one in my bag. Their eyes are so happy and soulful. I fell in love a dozen times!

Then we headed to the beach. But unlike Goa and Gokarna this wasn't a "touristy" beach. This is where the LOCALS hang out. For us that meant no bikinis or swimming, but lots of gawking locals taking sneaky photos of us with their cell phones. But we just sat there for a few hours and really soaked in the culture. Lucky for us there were some locals who were fishing, and we got to watch the two-hour adventure. First they dragged the nets out in their boats, and dropped them a few hundred meters out. Then they all sat on shore hanging onto the opposite ends of the net. When they decided that enough time had passed they started slowly pulling the nets in, one heave-ho at a time, and more locals joined the game to help them pull the nets in faster. Mind you, with a HUGE net filled with fish, it was a big chore to get it out of the water and onto the beach and it took about 90 minutes. When the nets were finally on the beach, there were hundreds of people who gathered to witness the catch, and we were the only light faces in the crowd.

A few miscellaneous experiences that I have to share...

An interesting massage experience: Several times during my travels, I have gotten a massage "just because". Just because I want to, just because it feels good, and just because it's really cheap. This time however was different. My back had become really achy and stiff, and it was causing me pain to pick up my bag or even sleep. I found a woman in Kerala who is a very talented practitioner of Kalari and Sidda, a unique ayurvedic healing technique. To start with, getting massages in Asian countries is a bit different than at home. The practitioner stands in front of you and tells you to get undressed. While they stand and just watch you. "Everything?" I say. "Yes, everything". OK...

Once over the awkwardness of this situation, then the magic begins. The massage oil has been specially prepared for my "vata" body type and pain using nearly 100 special herbs, most of them collected from within miles of where we are. It begins with a head massage, utilizing special "hair oil". Though it really is complete bliss, it takes days to get it out. Then she rubs REALLY FAST everywhere in some sort of coordinated chaotic pattern...with LOTS of oil, like maybe a gallon (seriously!). As the table is just a plastic coated platform, this got a little tricky when she asked me to stand on the table and walk back and forth so she could look at my gait. (Remember that I am naked while doing this - it was simultaneously awkward AND dangerous!) Anyway, Sunitha worked her magic on my aching body, and then sent me skipping out the door. Lucky for you there are no photos of this hilarious encounter!

And, on my expanding waistline: The food in India is so delicious I can't begin to describe... well, the photo here of my belly will help you understand! I've probably gained around 5 wonderful pounds. A typical day's food is something like this... breakfast consists of a lassi, dosa (thin pancake filled with a spicy potato mixture served with two different chutneys), lunch is some kind of curry or masala served with rice or chapatis, and dinner is often a thali, an Indian rendition of dal bhat, which consists of rice, veg curry, dal, some kind of spicy vegetable, curd and a dessert. Average cost of an all-you-can-eat thali is about 80 cents. Usually in the day for a snack we'll have a fruit salad or fresh juice. Yum. Daily cost of gorging yourself: about $8.

On a new America: I did get to watch the innaguration of Barack Obama as the new leader of America on CNN. It was such an emotional moment for me, as I'm sure for you as well. Gerdien and I were in the dirtiest, grossest hotel in Madurai, and I kept her up late into the night to watch all the festivities. We drank beer and toasted with the world! Now the real work begins, but trust me the world is optimistic too!

And on my toenail: Look it's growing back! Not quite ready for a coat of toenail polish, but it's getting there!!

Today we leave Auroville and head north for one quick day to Mamalapuram, then we'll take a two-day train north to Bodh Gaya to take the Discovering Buddhism course at the Root Institute. And, once again, I'm extending my stay in India until my visa expires on February 26. This is such a big country and it would take a year to see it properly! Such a pity, but I will come back for sure...

With love,

Pam

Communication Challenges & Real-Life Situations

India has 18 different recognized "official" languages, and a universally understood head bob that apparently means yes. Since I speak only English, and a few words from each state I visit (basically hello and thank you), communication can be a challenge, to say the least! Most people have studied English for at least a few years in school, but most of them speak a very programmed set of words. "What is your good name?" "You from where?" "You like Kerala?" and their very favorite word, "Yes." I always try my best to answer their questions with a smile and graciousness, but occasionally I need to ask questions too. This is where it gets complicated! Here are a few real-life situations that have happened recently, and trust me there are ten a day just like this...

Situation #1: Am I on the right bus? -- I know that our bus from Kerala is supposed to depart at 5:30, so at about 5:20, I start looking around the station but the bus destinations are not written in English. So I poke my head in a few buses and ask, "Kumily?" A few say no, and point to some invisible bus next door. One replies with a head bob. I, and most westerners, interpret this vague signal to be "perhaps" or "maybe" or "maybe not", so I ask again. "Is this bus going to Kumily?" Head bob. I say, "Yes, then?" Head bob. So I look at Gerdien, and we shrug, and board a bus that we hope is heading to Kumily... amazingly, we arrived. (But only after barfing out the window, but that's another story!)

Lesson - The head bob means yes, no matter how ambivalent it looks.

Situation #2: Big Talkers, Heavy Accents -- One of the most hilarious aspects of communicating with Indians, at least the ones that work in the more touristy places, is that they are overly confident in their English skills, even if their accent is so heavy that you can't understand a word they say. Today, while getting a massage for an achy back, the woman said to me so confidently and fast, "Today, you go home, no pick, eat no, rub like this every day" and she acts out a poorly coordinated routine I'm supposed to copy, and I try. She says, "NO! Not that." Then she says, "You ten years, today come to me, not good today, tomorrow pain, after. You understand?" I head bob in agreement, though I think mine means more of a maybe not. She doesn't understand the language I speak, nor me her, but I feel better nonetheless.

Lesson - Unless your life depends on it, just assume that you will never understand everything that is being said and know that you will be OK anyway.

Situation #3: Goa Bus Station -- Gerdien and I board the bus bound for the railway station and we sit in a bench seat built for three, our backpacks occupying the third seat. When the ticket collector comes along, and the bus is moments from leaving he loudly insists that Gerdien get off the bus and buy a third ticket for our bags. She rushes to the ticket window to ask for a third ticket (only about 10 cents) for the bags, and the ticket agent looks confused and says "No ticket needed." Hmmm. She comes back to the bus, no ticket in hand, and the ticket collector says, "Twenty rupees please." (about 50 cents.) We, and our bags, make it safely to the train in plenty of time.

Lesson - Everything is possible in India, with a small tip to whoever is in charge.

Situation #4: Ordering food -- At a local Indian restaurant (not the tourist variety) I try to order lunch. "Can you tell me what the Malai Kofta is?" Response, "Yes". "OK then, what?" "Yes." I ask, "Is it fried?" "Yes?" He says "Fresh fried." Hmmm, what's that? "OK, then how about the Chana Masala." He says, "Chapati?" "No, no chapati, no rice, just chana." "You want chapati then?" "No, no chapati." "OK, chana masala and chapati?" I'm tired of ordering, and finally just say "Yes." When the order arrives, alas, there is no chapati. These situations happen basically every time I order a meal, and I never stop finding them hilarious.

Lesson - Just order anything. Everything is good, no matter what you get!

Situation #5: Bargaining for a Rickshaw -- "How much is a rickshaw to Periyar?" "One hundred rupees." Aghast, I say, "Too much! How about twenty five?" "OK., get in." Done.

Lesson - NEVER pay what the rickshaw driver asks!

Situation #6: Asking the Price of Something -- I ask at a phone booth how much it will cost Gerdien to call Holland per minute. "Five seconds, two twenty rupees." "No, I want to know for a minute, not for five seconds." She repeats, "Five seconds, two twenty." "Two hundred and twenty rupees for FIVE SECONDS? That's like thirty dollars for one minute!," I exclaim. "No..." and she scribbles something down on a piece of paper, "2.2 rupees per 5 seconds." OH. That's a little different...

Lesson - When in doubt, have them write down what they are trying to say.

Hopefully, should YOU come to India someday, you can learn from my real-life lessons!

A New Year, A New Bag, and Gobs of New Experiences

Happy New Year! It's been a while since I've written. I've been unmotivated to post since I had a tragic memory card error and I haven't been able to upload photos. The good news is that I was able to extract MOST of my photos and copy them to CD (they've been sent home!) and my memory card was repaired so I can still use it. The bad news is that I lost five really rich days worth of images...oh well. The memories will live forever, and I have learned a valuable lesson.

I started the new year with a new bag... Angie's departure back to Seattle was a good excuse to send my "Princess Bag" home with her and get a new, smaller bag. I am SO much happier being able to carry all of my worldly possessions on my back . I've made a resolution for myself: if I buy something new, I have to leave something behind. It's so liberating and I feel so free!

New experiences...they happen every single day. Every moment of every day. There is no way for me to describe how much I am learning about the world, India, other people, other cultures, and - most of all - myself. As I travel, mostly without much of a plan, I am constantly exposed to people and places that are off of the tourist path. The vibrant colors, pungent (and often delicious) smells, the beautiful landscapes, the constant (and I mean that) sound of horns and dogs and Bollywood music, the positively delicious, local food...every minute of every day I am doing and tasting and seeing things that I never would have imagined. My perspective is become so much more open, and things that would have shocked or scared me a few month ago are now beautiful and fresh and fun. And, I never stop recognizing the gift of being able to take this extended time off and relax into each place in a way that becomes more natural with every new sunrise.

I am changing, growing, evolving as a result of it all. I'm no longer the person who left Seattle but I'm likely not yet the person I will become. I'm me, but I'm someone new. With so many experiences coloring my world, I'm excited to discover how I will continue to morph into the New Pam that will return to Seattle. My friend Scott gave me an MP3 player with a song that I listen to over and over again by Cat Stevens called "On the Road to Find Out." The lyrics resonate with me...

Well I left my happy home to see what I could find out

I left my folk and friends with the aim to clear my mind out

Well I hit the rowdy road and many kinds I met there

Many stories told me of the way to get there

So on and on I go, the seconds tick the time out

There's so much left to know, and I'm on the road to find out

I really am on the road to find out though I suspect I will find it already exists inside of me.

Travel update: Last week, I spent five glorious days in Goa. It was my reunion with Gerdien, and we had a great time together. Goa is touristy , but you don't have to look hard to find the local flavor and culture. I enjoyed having a few days just to relax, and to stay in one place for an extended period of time. (Unpacking is such a joy!) The most fun that I had was renting a motorcycle and exploring northern Goa. I have a video that I so wish I could share, but unfortunately it lives on a CD bound for the US right now... imagine me, with Gerdien on the back (her filming the video), our hair flying in the wind, the afternoon sun shining on us, and both of us just with the hugest smiles possible and lots of laughter. I was like a kid on Christmas morning...I giggle just thinking about it!

This past weekend I spent at the International Conference on Sustainable Architecture in Trivandrum, Kerala. I know, you're asking what the ???? I just thought it was a little too serendipitous that it was going on, and I was there. I'm glad I went. I connected with a few people that I know I will stay in touch with - both personally and professionally - forever. And it was fascinating to see the "sustainable architecture" of India. It is such a contrast to that of the western world... such simple, low-tech designs: courtyards that open from the inside out (like you can experience the rain falling from your living room), no insulation, many multi-functional spaces (for eating, sleeping, entertaining, cooking, watching the weather change), lots of windows and a big focus on solar orientation. Unfortunately 90% of the buildings that I toured would not even be allowed to be built in the US...such a shame!

I've decided to extend my time in India by a couple of weeks (depart mid-February) to study Buddhism in Bodh Gaya (where the Dalai Lama spends his winters...maybe I'll see him!) In a few weeks, I'll join a yoga retreat where I'll get to indulge in yoga and meditation and delicious organic food at least twice a day. I might even learn how to kite surf...and I still really want to see a tiger!

I can hardly believe that the calendar has turned the page to 2009. For years, I have thought of this as the year when my niece Alanna will graduate from high school, and that has always been so far away! Suddenly, here it is...and time continues to tick! I hope you all were able to share the holidays with loved ones, build a snowman or two and hopefully make plans for adventure in 2009. I must admit, I was a little jealous to miss Seattle's first White Christmas in 20 years... I spent mine with white sand!

South India is a joyous explosion of the mind and senses! I hope someday you are able to experience it for yourself...I promise to help you build a really great itinerary!!

With love and wishes for the happiest of new years~

Pam