Blogging is becoming a bit of a chore. I think it's that the weather is really hot and the internet cafe's are even hotter. Sorry for my infrequent updates, but trust me...I'm safe and having a great time!
Today, Gerdien and I will leave Auroville. It's an interesting "intentional" community designed to be a peaceful place for people of the world to flourish, and respect each other. Currently, there are about 2,000 full time residenst with about 2/3 of them being foreigners representing 40 countries! The golden orb at left is the Matrimandir, or the "soul of Auroville" that has a very special meditation chamber inside that we got to visit. We've been here a week now, and we've had an interesting time just trying to elbow our way into the flow of the town. Since it's not really designed to be a "tourist" destination, and instead a place where people come to live and participate in the chores of life - farming, organizing, creating arts and crafts, running
a restaurant or guest house, you have to really work to find all the locations of classes and concerts. BUT once you do it's really fantastic! There are probably at least a dozen (or more?) courses per day from which you can choose to enrich your mind, soul or body. I chose yoga, pilates, music and a class on "Finding my Healing Voice." That was a fun one, but I'm glad there is not a video for me to relive my singing in front of the group! If I ever get the chance, Auroville would be a very interesting - and affordable - place to spend 6-12 months. Next time...
Gerdien and I took a scooter ride through Auroville and Pondicherry and it was a really great experience of authentic Indian life. We drove slow, took lots of photos and got off the bike a few times to talk to the local people. At one stop, Gerdien slipped and scraped her foot and some local women and children came running and insisted on tending to her wound. It was a great entry into a wonderful momen
t in India. With this group of 12, we laughed, talked as best we could, and they even fed us some lukewarm fish that had probably been sitting on the counter for a few days... ugh. These are the moments that you hope you never encounter because it is SUCH a warm act of kindness and generosity coming from these people who have so little that you really just feel terrible to say no. So, we said yes, and about a 
day and a half later I had a little "Delhi belly" problem. Oh well... the small cost of a wonderful encounter. And look at these beautiful children - I can't believe I didn't tuck one in my bag. Their eyes are so happy and soulful. I fell in love a dozen times! 
Then we headed to the beach. But unlike Goa and Gokarna this wasn't a "touristy" beach. This is where the LOCALS hang out. For us that meant no bikinis or swimming, but lots of gawking locals taking sneaky photos of us with their cell phones. But we just sat there for a few hours and 
really soaked in the culture. Lucky for us there were some locals who were fishing, and we got to watch the two-hour adventure. First they dragged the nets out in their boats, and dropped them a few hundred meters out. Then they all sat on shore hanging onto the opposite ends of the net. When they decided that enough time had passed they started slowly pulling the nets in, one heave-ho at a time, and more locals joined the game to help them pull the nets in faster. Mind you, with a HUGE net filled with fish, it was a big chore to get it out of the water and onto the beach and it took about 90 minutes. When the nets were finally on the beach, there were hundreds of people who gathered to witness the catch, and we were the only light faces in the crowd.
really soaked in the culture. Lucky for us there were some locals who were fishing, and we got to watch the two-hour adventure. First they dragged the nets out in their boats, and dropped them a few hundred meters out. Then they all sat on shore hanging onto the opposite ends of the net. When they decided that enough time had passed they started slowly pulling the nets in, one heave-ho at a time, and more locals joined the game to help them pull the nets in faster. Mind you, with a HUGE net filled with fish, it was a big chore to get it out of the water and onto the beach and it took about 90 minutes. When the nets were finally on the beach, there were hundreds of people who gathered to witness the catch, and we were the only light faces in the crowd. 
A few miscellaneous experiences that I have to share...
An interesting massage experience: Several times during my travels, I have gotten a massage "just because". Just because I want to, just because it feels good, and just because it's really cheap. This time however was different. My back had become really achy and stiff, and it was causing me pain to pick up my bag or even sleep. I found a woman in Kerala who is a very talented practitioner of Kalari and Sidda, a unique ayurvedic healing technique. To start with, getting massages in Asian countries is a bit different than at home. The practitioner stands in front of you and tells you to get undressed. While they stand and just watch you. "Everything?" I say. "Yes, everything". OK...
Once over the awkwardness of this situation, then the magic begins. The massage oil has been specially prepared for my "vata" body type and pain using nearly 100 special herbs, most of them collected from within miles of where we are. It begins with a head massage, utilizing special "hair oil". Though it really is complete bliss, it takes days to get it out. Then she rubs REALLY FAST everywhere in some sort of coordinated chaotic pattern...with LOTS of oil, like maybe a gallon (seriously!). As the table is just a plastic coated platform, this got a little tricky when she asked me to stand on the table and walk back and forth so she could look at my gait. (Remember that I am naked while doing this - it was simultaneously awkward AND dangerous!) Anyway, Sunitha worked her magic on my aching body, and then sent me skipping out the door. Lucky for you there are no photos of this hilarious encounter!
Once over the awkwardness of this situation, then the magic begins. The massage oil has been specially prepared for my "vata" body type and pain using nearly 100 special herbs, most of them collected from within miles of where we are. It begins with a head massage, utilizing special "hair oil". Though it really is complete bliss, it takes days to get it out. Then she rubs REALLY FAST everywhere in some sort of coordinated chaotic pattern...with LOTS of oil, like maybe a gallon (seriously!). As the table is just a plastic coated platform, this got a little tricky when she asked me to stand on the table and walk back and forth so she could look at my gait. (Remember that I am naked while doing this - it was simultaneously awkward AND dangerous!) Anyway, Sunitha worked her magic on my aching body, and then sent me skipping out the door. Lucky for you there are no photos of this hilarious encounter!
And, on my expanding waistline: The food in India is so delicious I can't begin to describe... well, the photo here of my belly will help you understand! I've probably gained around 5 wonderful
pounds. A typical day's food is something like this... breakfast consists of a lassi, dosa (thin pancake filled with a spicy potato mixture served with two different chutneys), lunch is some kind of curry or masala served with rice or chapatis, and dinner is often a thali, an Indian rendition of dal bhat, which consists of rice, veg curry, dal, some kind of spicy vegetable, curd and a dessert. Average cost of an all-you-can-eat thali is about 80 cents. Usually in the day for a snack we'll have a fruit salad or fresh juice. Yum. Daily cost of gorging yourself: about $8.
pounds. A typical day's food is something like this... breakfast consists of a lassi, dosa (thin pancake filled with a spicy potato mixture served with two different chutneys), lunch is some kind of curry or masala served with rice or chapatis, and dinner is often a thali, an Indian rendition of dal bhat, which consists of rice, veg curry, dal, some kind of spicy vegetable, curd and a dessert. Average cost of an all-you-can-eat thali is about 80 cents. Usually in the day for a snack we'll have a fruit salad or fresh juice. Yum. Daily cost of gorging yourself: about $8.On a new America: I did get to watch the innaguration of Barack Obama as the new leader of America on CNN. It was such an emotional moment for me, as I'm sure for you as well. Gerdien and I were in the dirtiest, grossest hotel in Madurai, and I kept her up late into the night to watch all the festivities. We drank beer and toasted with the world! Now the real work begins, but trust me the world is optimistic too!
And on my toenail: Look it's growing back! Not quite ready for a coat of toenail polish, but it's getting there!!Today we leave Auroville and head north for one quick day to Mamalapuram, then we'll take a two-day train north to Bodh Gaya to take the Discovering Buddhism course at the Root Institute. And, once again, I'm extending my stay in India until my visa expires on February 26. This is such a big country and it would take a year to see it properly! Such a pity, but I will come back for sure...
With love,
Pam
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2 comments:
"Five wonderful pounds." Love it.
Pam ji!
Fab Sab clued me into your adventure a while ago and I have loved sharing your journey. My own fascination with India has grown more resolute with every post. Thank you!
Safe travels and blessings,
Henrietta
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