Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Giving thanks at 18,000 feet

Just before beginning my recent 18-day trek of the Annapurna Circuit, I sat in the lobby of a musty guest house in Besisahar in anxious anticipation of the election results. I'd urged my trekking companions to postpone our departure by one day under the auspices of allowing time for my toenail to heal (which it did), when in actuality what I really wanted was to know the results of the election before we departed! It was a really spectacular moment in my life, and one that I know I will never forget. Al Jazeera was the only news channel that I could see, and the reporters were obviously elated. The people in the lobby with me were from all around the world, and they were celebrating too. I cried as I listened to Obama's acceptance speech, and then told nearly everyone who would listen along the trail about our soon-to-be new president. I can tell you first hand that the world is really celebrating this victory as much as we are, and perhaps more. This vendor in a remote village of Nepal had a photo of Obama on his wares, and was ebullient when I told him I was from the USA.

The Annapurna Circuit trek was fantastic... we crossed Thorung La, the world's highest pass at 5,417 meters (nearly 18,000 feet)! This was a huge accomplishment for me personally on so many levels, but mostly the fact that I really didn't think that I could do this. Some of you may know I have asthma, and though it's relatively mild I've always somehow been convinced that it meant that I couldn't challenge my lungs in this way. Well I did, and they worked! ANYTHING is possible...

Though the pass was certainly a big part of the feeling of pride that I'm feeling now, trekking for 18 days for approximately 140 miles, gaining (and then descending) approximately 17,000 feet of elevation is a pretty darn big accomplishment too! The photo on the left is of Thorung Peak, which stands at just over 20,000 feet, and it's taken from the pass that I crossed. Doesn't it look small? The photo puts it into perspective for me!


There were so many beautiful points along the trek. We walked counterclockwise around the Annapurna range beginning in Bhulbhule, and ending in Nayapul. The towns and villages along the way exist year round for the most part, which makes it different from the Sanctuary trek. Most of the villages are hundreds or even thousands of years old. Braga, Upper Pisang and Kagbeni were a few of my favorite villages as they have retained the character of their age, and reflect the simple way of life for the residents.

From Kagbeni, you look north into the Kali Gandaki river valley, which is the direct route into the Mustang region (where I might have been if my permit had arrived...but life works out exactly as it is supposed to) and it is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. It is late in the day so my photos aren't great, but they show the daily afternoon migration of the sheep from the mountains back to their home in Kagbeni. There were probably 1,000 sheep, perhaps 4-5 large flocks, each with shepherds and dogs to keep them in check. One by one, they each crossed a narrow bridge across the river, until soon after they were running right by us. It was a seriously beautiful moment that I will never forget.

The majority of the people who live along this route live an agrarian lifestyle; the others run guest houses or other services for tourists. We saw people farming potatoes, corn, millet, rice, cabbage, cauliflower and sugar cane. Mostly, the women do the harvesting work. The men handle the animals and plows. In the higher elevations, there were yaks, sheep and goats everywhere. At one of our guest houses that sat at about 4,000 meters I even had a chance encounter with a yak in bathroom! Luckily, I wasn't in there when he was cleaning the floor with his tongue, but I did get to witness it.

On the west side of the pass the villages are along the historic trade route between Tibet and India, and so a very strong Tibetan influence is still felt today. We met several Tibetan refugees who are proud to tell you about their heritage, and sad when they think of the current status of their homeland. This one, Norju, is a 71-year-old who emigrated to Nepal in 1959 at the age of 23 -- the same year as the Dalai Lama. He now sells Tibetan handicrafts at a small stall along the route. I wear a bracelet that I bought from him to remind me of my experience and this place.

The group that I was with was a huge part of the fun of this trip, too. Considering that I only knew one of the other five people (three trekkers and two porters) before we all met at the trailhead, it could have been a disaster. Indeed, it worked out perfectly. It was Erik, a hydrologist from Minneapolis, Jaya an engineer from California, Gerdien my Dutch friend that I met in Kathmandu, and then Shova and Parvat our two porters. We all got along great and really had good energy. I'm sure we'll remain in touch for a long time to come. We shared many laughs, much sweat, a few tears, a lot of gas (!), and an unforgettable life experience. The gas I'm told is a natural function of our bodies when they get to high altitude. I'm sure the diet of constant carbohydrates (dal bhat, macaroni, porridge, and Pringles) didn't help either. Trekking is a good way to get to know someone really well!

A memorable moment occurred on the second day of the trek. Ellen, a German gal that I had met in Pokhara and been traveling at the same pace with (she saw me cry during Obama's acceptance speech!), had a terrible accident. She fell through a window at a lodge where she was having lunch. Our group arrived about 20 minutes behind her and her partner Tine, and got to witness the chaos and a lot of blood. Her major bleeding had been stopped, but she had at least a dozen other lacerations that needed cleaning and glass removed. I immediately got into nurse mode, broke out my first aid kit and began to clean up her wounds. Thankfully, there was a doctor only one village away (almost two hours) so we stayed until he came and stitched her up in four places. Amazingly, Ellen and Tine continued their trek, and finished on the same day we did!


The flora and fauna are stunning...everywhere you look. I thought my plant-loving friends would appreciate seeing that poinsettias do actually grow in the wild! And, they grow to be 20-30 feet tall when given the chance!! And, did you know that there is such a thing as a rhododendron FOREST? They grow in the wild, and can reach 40-50 feet tall with trunks as much as 3 feet across. Certainly this is a reason to come back to Nepal in the springtime to get to witness it all in bloom.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all, and know that I give thanks to each of you for your support, friendship and love.