A new adventure begins

Last night I arrived in Delhi after nearly 21 hours of being in transit from Seattle. The long flights gave me a lot of time to ponder this new life that is before me right now. Surprisingly emotional at my airport drop off (thank you Chrystal!) I realized that nearly two years before I had embarked on a similar yet very different journey. In September 2008, my journey was towards self-discovery and exploration, with the outcome completely unknown. This time I am traveling because it is my JOB. It feels different.. a bit like going to graduate school after taking classes at the university. The landscape is familiar, my knowledge base exists, but it's a whole new - and higher - level of learning and understanding.

What will I do with this new knowledge? Want to visit Bhutan with me in October 2011? How about India in November 2011? Drop me a line (pam@grandasianjourneys.com) and I'll be sure to keep you on my list when details are announced in the next few months. I'll be happy to teach you what I've learned - and continue to learn - along the way!

Arriving in Delhi, a very kind gentleman held a sign with my name. He carried my bags, deposited my tired body into a nice, air-conditioned car and drove me to a comfortable hotel. I take this all to be a good omen of my forthcoming NEW big adventure. Title of this one? Not sure but I'm pretty sure Liz Gilbert would be jealous.

(FYI, off to Bhutan tomorrow and will be offline until 10/18. )

With love,

Pam

Packing for an Extended Journey

Traveling around the globe for 10 months, I learned a lot about what is important to have with you, and what is "optional" and will inevitably get left behind, traded or sent home. The main rule that a friend shared with me before I left - and I wish I'd heeded - is pack what you think you need, and then take out half. When preparing we often feel like we won't be able to get what we need on the road. The bottom line is: you can. It's all available, even in the third world.

Here are the things that I will always pack in any future journey:

1) First, it starts with a good backpack. I started my trip with a great bag that I spent about $300 on at REI (Osprey wheeled 25" convertible backpack which I dubbed my "princess bag"). I thought I would need wheels because of a recurring back problem that I've had over the years, and wondered what would happen if my back acted up and I couldn't put my pack on. Good idea on paper, and bad idea in practice. The bag weighed seven pounds before I put a single item in it. Not a good plan. It got sent home from India, where I bought bag #2 - a traditional backpacker's backpack that you enter from the top. The problem was that to get at anything I had to pull everything out, and then put everything back in. Inconvenient.

I ended my trip with bag #3 that I bought in Vietnam. A "North Farce" backpack with a zipper around the perimeter and a separate detachable daypack. This ended up being a great bag for traveling and I'll definitely be using it again.

And, my back behaved and only once did I pause my trip for treatment. (Read about the awkward ayurvedic massage in this post.)

2) First aid kit: I can not tell you how important this was. I found myself in one situation (post here) in Nepal where the first aid kit proved VERY important. But there were countless other times when an ankle brace, band aid, moleskin, antibiotics, alcohol swab, tweezers, etc. were critical. Here's a few of the must pack items:

-Band aids, all sizes. These are not hard to find in other countries, but I found all the ones I found to not stick properly or to stick like duct tape.

-Ankle brace and/or ace bandage. There are a million opportunities a day to twist an ankle or a knee.

-Antibiotics. Go to a travel medicine doctor before your trip, and in addition to making recommendations for immunizations he can prescribe antibiotics that can be used in cases of gastrointestinal issues or colds. If you tend to get yeast infections from antibiotics, pack meds for that, too.

-Supplements. I packed multi vitamins for the first few months. I was able to purchase more along the road. Especially in countries where the diets are much different than your own with not a great deal of fruits and vegetables, multivitamins are important.

-I also packed a magic drop called TriGuard Plus that you mix with water and take anytime you eat something questionable or start to feel a little queasy.

-I also packed Acidophilous Pearls that I took almost every morning to keep my healthy flora happy.

-Gauze pads and tape

-Oral rehydration salts (for post-diarrhea hydration)

-Moleskin

-Alcohol swabs (I used these a lot!)

-Tylenol PM. Sleeping was difficult in many locations for many reasons (noise, high altitude, uncomfortable bed) and this helped me many nights.

3) Steri Pen. This was a fantastic tool that allowed me to purify my own water instead of always relying on plastic. It uses UV light to purify water. I was also able to reuse bottles that I did have to buy. Plastic is a huge problem around the globe that you will inevitably encounter on your journey. (Side note: Here's a great short video on plastic water bottles that just came out showing why I didn't want to buy water!)

4) Good shoes. You will be walking a lot. Walking in heat. Walking on uneven surfaces. Walking in the rain. Walking for long distances. You will want to make sure that your shoes are comfortable and versatile. I packed a pair of Merrill trail runners and Chaco sandals. My hiking boots were sent home after Nepal because they were just too heavy and bulky to carry. My Merrill's were used for future hiking adventures. You will be able to buy cute sandals or other shoes on the road, but you really don't want to carry more than three pairs of shoes, but I'd recommend two.

5) Technology. I packed rechargeable batteries and a battery recharger, camera cord, memory card, thumb drive, memory card reader. Also, in Nepal I bought a cell phone for $25 and in each country I was able to buy a SIM card for $5 or less. Having a phone gave me great peace of mind and allowed me to communicate with other friends I met traveling quite easily.

I did not pack a computer and do not recommend it. It would become a target of theft, and it's heavy, subject to rough conditions,etc. Besides, there are internet cafes EVERYWHERE and access is really inexpensive.

6) Light jacket. I brought a Marmot jacket that isn't rain proof, but it's wind resistant, light weight and water resistant. It was warm, light and packed small. It was worn, loved and appreciated in every country.

7) Sarong. Ladies, pack a sarong. It can be used as a bed sheet, beach towel, skirt, dress, scarf, etc. And best it's light and packs small. You will not regret it. Guys, you wouldn't regret it either!

8) Comfort essentials. If your journey is anything like mine, you'll spend a great deal of time in transit on planes, trains and automobiles. An inflatable neck pillow, eye cover and ear plugs will get plenty of use!

9) Travel sheet and towel. I had no idea how much I would use a travel sheet! I packed the silk variety and it was light and comfortable. The places I stayed were usually inexpensive and often wouldn't have sheets or I wasn't sure how clean the sheets were. The travel towel is small and dries quickly. Invaluable!

10) Something cute to wear. A simple black dress or skirt can be dressed up and worn out to dinner with a shirt or scarf you buy on the road.

Hope this was helpful! Don't hesitate to drop me a line or leave a comment if you have any specific questions. I'd be happy to help!

Happy traveling!

India: Chapter Two & more exciting updates

I've been home for 7.5 months now, and I'm really settling into a happy groove. Many of you have asked about what I'm doing for work and the good news is that I am employed!

Since October, I've been working as a part-time marketing consultant. It's been a lot of fun, as I work on special projects for several local travel companies (surprise!) including EcoTeach and Earthbound Expeditions. In addition, I have just started life coach training and will begin coaching - in addition to the marketing - soon. (Email me if you're interested in special introductory rates!)

I have also had the good fortune of connecting with Jwalant at Crystal Mountain Treks. He's hired me to open the US offices of his company (locally it will be called Grand Asian Journeys - website coming soon). It is very exciting (albeit often nerve-wracking!) to be on the ground level of a travel company, and it is for him that I get to begin my new pseudo-career as a tour guide this fall. (Can being a tour guide count as a career? Hope so!)

Do you remember how much I loved India? Did you see all the posts on my blog (here are one, two, three of my favorites)? This fall, I am so excited to get to be the Tour Director for two trips to India - one in the North and one in the South - and you are invited to join me! I was able to design the itineraries with the best of each half of the country in mind. In fact, they are really often viewed within India as two separate countries, and it's apparent when you travel why that is so. Individually, they will be fantastic tours, but together they would be unforgettable!

Here's some information about each tour. Click on the links to see the itineraries:

"South India, still relatively overlooked by the masses, is steeped in rich and ancient history. From spicy culture to laid back nature, it has something for everyone. Authentic experiences await in markets, temples, kitchens, canals and jungles. Tamil Nadu is the heart of ancient India's Dravidian culture, whose legacy will be felt in the temples of Tanjore and Mammalapuram. And no South India journey is complete without Kerala, where we will float down the lush backwaters in a traditional houseboat, explore emerald green tea plantations and immerse ourselves in one of the friendliest cultures in India."

"Arriving in North India, you step into the history and mystery of a land culture goes back thousands of years. With a potent blend of the stunning and the sacred, the experience will stimulate your senses and touch your soul. Visit Jaipur, the Pink City, and witness the town's amazing transformation at sunset. Experience the grandeur and perfection of the Taj Mahal, and honor sacred life on the Ganges River at Varanasi as it has been for millennia. Trace Buddhism back to its roots at Sarnath where Gautama Buddha learned and shared his teachings. Travel through time as you witness time-honored silk production techniques. This is a journey not to be missed! "

If you are interested in getting more information on these trips, please let me know. I will be the tour director, and we will also have a local guide to talk about religions and culture, and be an interpreter! I promise these are two trips that you will not forget! I hope you can join me this fall!

With love,

Pam

PS - Please forward this newsletter to anyone you know who might be interested in traveling to India. There is an early booking special before April 30, and a bonus for you if you refer someone who joins us. Refer away!

Post-Trip Q & A

"One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things." –- Henry Miller

So I've been back in the USA for 6 days and so far, so good. I'm slowly easing into "Western" life and culture again. I've spent some time with family and friends and am getting a lot of questions from them, so I thought I'd answer a few of them for all of you, too.

Favorite country?

Sorry folks, but that one is impossible to answer. Too many favorites, each country was completely different. I loved the mountains of Nepal, the food and sensory excitement of India, the people and learning in Guatemala, meeting family in Poland, seeing friends in Holland and Vietnam, the children of Laos and so much more. Perhaps an easier questions would be "what was your LEAST favorite country." Thailand gets that honor. Too shiny and Western for my liking.

How was my health?

I fared remarkably well! I was told before I left that 70% of our immune system lies in the health of the flora of our intestines. So, I took Acidophilous Pearls every day (Great for travelers. They are compact and don't need refrigeration.) I had a few bouts of travelers diarrhea but for the most part they lasted 12 hours or less. I had a bit of chest congestion in Thailand, but that was directly related to the crummy air quality as it was the season of slashing and burning. A constant smoky haze hung in the air there. I twisted my ankle on the Annapurna Sanctuary trek and it re-twisted a couple of times during the trip, most notably at Angkor Wat. And I had the worst asthma attack of my life in Guatemala, the result of an encounter with a moldy, mildewy bed. Nearly had to find a doctor at midnight in a small town, but cured myself by breathing eucalyptus steam for a couple of hours. Otherwise, not even a cold!

What did I miss?

Besides people, I missed mostly things that involved food. Great big fresh, wild greens salads. Good chocolate. Cheese, like the kind you find at the Whole Foods cheese counter...I'm drooling just thinking about it. And, cooking. I did get to do a bit while traveling, but really only a handful of times. The best was a full day with Lidia in her kitchen in Guatemala. We made mole (chilies, tomatoes, pure chocolate and lots of spices and secrets), a delicious Caribbean fish soup, a few traditional vegetarian Mayan dishes and traditional Mayan hot cocoa with REAL, freshly ground cocoa beans!! I missed having more than 3 changes of clothes, 4 pairs of underwear, soft sheets and comfy beds and pillows, hot showers (usually they were cold or lukewarm, and with weak pressure), and having more than 32 songs. My dear friend Scott had given me his old MP3 player loaded with 32 great songs. So while they were all songs that I loved, after a while I got a little tired of them, as you can imagine. I'm considering the proper funeral ceremony for an antiquated electronics device. Ideas?

Traveling alone?
To be honest, traveling alone is a fallacy. In my experience, I was virtually never alone. I can think of maybe 10 times in 10 months that I was really, truly alone. But virtually never lonely. When you travel, wherever you go, you meet people who are doing the same thing that you are doing. Interesting, fun, adventurous people - exactly the kind that I wanted to hang out with. I met hundreds of people that I hope to stay in touch with, and a few, cherished friends that I know will be in my life forever! The hardest part about "traveling alone" is getting on that first airplane, and then getting off at a new place without someone by your side. After that, you instantly start making friends, connecting, and creating plans. And it's fun because you are making plans for you and you alone, and not by committee decision.

How much did it cost?

Not including my international flights, I spent an average of about $40 per day, which included all domestic travel, food, lodging, sightseeing, adventures, gifts, shipping, missed flights and haircuts. Also, the places I traveled were fairly inexpensive to live, but it would certainly be possible to spend a lot more, or a lot less. I stayed mostly guest houses or with families for the most part, and ate at local places that tended to be cheaper. Also, I flew on several segments of the trip that would have been much less expensive to go overland, but because of time considerations I spent the money to fly. Cheapest countries were Nepal and Vietnam. Most expensive certainly was Europe, but after that probably Cambodia.

Did you feel safe?
By and by, I followed a few simple rules that served me well:

1) Always look like you know where you're going, even if you don't
2) Don't make eye contact with strangers (hard one to do, but an effective technique)
3) Don't get drunk, do drugs, or do anything to dull your mental acuity.

Other than that, I was just aware of my security and well-being at all times and exercised an awful lot of common sense. It worked well for me.

Country with the best food?
That's a tough question, really tough. Certainly Nepal, Laos and Cambodia had the worst, but the best... probably India. That is, after all, where I gained at least 5 pounds! Dosas, curries, steamed bananas, chapati's and coconut chutney on everything! Despite how tasty the food is, it can be a bit heavy and oily at times. So a very close runner up is Vietnam. Though I spent less than a week there, I was staying with the Food Queen of Saigon. Marjie made sure that I ate the best that her neighborhood had to offer for every meal. Even between meals we found excuses to try something new. And most surprising to me there was the abundance of fresh squid in the cooking. In the states, squid is generally called calamari and deep fried. But there, they made soups and stir frys and sautes and so much more with it, and it was DELICIOUS! I'm looking forward to finding the best Vietnamese restaurant in Seattle to see how ours compares. Any suggestions?

Most Memorable Person(s)?
Gerdien, hands down. We spent over 4 months together and had immeasurable amounts of fun. But I also can't fail to mention Kuba and Kasia, my new Polish family.

Biggest Disappointment?
Hands down, not being able to be with Sadie in her final moments. That was terrible, and I'm grieving again now that I'm home.

Worst Accommodations? Best?
Probably in Madurai, India where I was for the Presidential Inauguration and I insisted (ask Gerdien) on finding a hotel with cable television. We settled on the first place we saw, because we were both weary from long bus rides and hot temperatures. The place had filth on the walls, dirty sheets, leftover garbage from a previous tenant...and CNN. We stayed, but it was only my skepticism at finding somewhere else in our price range with cable television! The best accommodations were everywhere that I stayed with my mom in Germany and Poland...I was beyond grateful for the respite from lukewarm, dirty showers and rock hard beds. Thanks Mom!

What's Next?

I'm still technically on my peregrination. I only traveled out of the country for 10 months but wanted to spend some time re-integrating in Seattle when I got home. So that is what I am doing right now...enjoying the Indianola beach, catching up with friends, doing a 10-day silent meditation retreat, camping, hiking and just chilling out. Starting September 1, I will get serious about planning my next career move as I have decided to follow my heart into a new profession. Not sure yet what that will be, but I'm definitely feeling drawn into the travel and tourism industry. Stay tuned for details on a tour that I will lead to India next Fall 2010, and let me know if you want to be on the list for details and pricing!

In hindsight, I can't believe my good fortune on this journey. I left a couple of weeks before the economy went down the toilet so I didn't have to hear all the depressing news, I missed all the political ads and campaigning (though still got to vote), met so many amazing friends, learned so much about so many things (not to mention myself), and came home richer despite my tanking 401(k). Life is definitely good. To me, the impermanence of money was a major lesson on this trip. Everything is fleeting, except for this very moment.

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -- Mark Twain

I plan to continue my blog as my life unfolds, and also will do a few final wraps on the trip - including a post on essential items to pack on trip like mine.

With gratitude,
Pam

Time going. Fast.

I´ve just completed 30 of the most intense, spiritually fulfilling days of my life. When was the last time you had a whole month to focus on yourself, learning, meditation, yoga and personal growth? The Moon Course at Las Piramides offered just that for me. And, for me it was the perfect way to close out my ten-month adventure.

I spent a week studying medicinal plants and learning how to make tinctures and teas, got my Reiki I attunement, had my chakras aligned and balanced, was ¨reconnected¨ to the universal energy, had a crystal healing (very cool!), got a few acupuncture treatments, read at least 6 books, learned about astrology, numerology, alchemy and Atlantis, did yoga every single day, swam at least a dozen times in the sacred Lake Atitlan, and settled into a rewarding meditation routine! It know that it sounds a bit fluffy, but it was delightful to be able to spend so much time just LEARNING and BEING and LISTENING. Total bliss...

We spent the last five days of the course in silence. I withheld solid food for 9 days and completely fasted for 5 of those. In that time, we had a project to do that involved about 20 pages of my journal. The course ended with a very special, positively magical Full Moon Ceremony that I will never forget.


In my class, there was a really fantastic group of people from all over the world. There was Gil from Israel, who is working on an ambitious world peace project; Mat, the adorable musician from LA who travels with his guitar; Mo, the retired nurse now living in Nicaragua; Andrea, the awesome free spirit from Argentina; Ifat, the former accountant creating a new life for herself; and many others. When you have so much time, and share such intense experiences, you tend to grow rather attached to one another! I know I have made many lifetime friends here.

I had been feeling a bit apprehensive about coming home. Not dreading it, but just not really feeling ready. I realized in the last month it was largely because I have had so many experiences during the past year, and had not taken the time to process everything that I have learned. But in my journal, my head, my heart, and with time...everything has become clear and easy. My apprehension is gone, and I´m finally really looking forward to my return to Seattle next week, and I hope to see many of you this summer!

With love and gratitude,
Pam

The Sun, the Moon and the Rain

San Marcos, Guatemala could very well be the one place that I have traveled to this year that I feel like I could live indefinitely. It is a peaceful place, with a very magical energy about it. It attracts travelers, but not so many tourists. Mostly people who are moving at a very relaxed pace and they tend to stay for 2-4 or even 50 weeks!




I´m stationed here for my final weeks of my journey. Every day in the Moon Course, I spend about two hours each in meditation, yoga, and equally about that much in class, learning about things like the tarot, numerology, reiki and medicinal plants. It´s about as healthy as healthy living comes here. I´m eating a totally vegetarian diet (nearly vegan), learning a ton, sleeping about 9 hours a night, and surrounded by amazing people. You see how people get stuck here? Oh, and this is my own private pyramid that I call home!


I didn´t realize when I sent all of my warm weather clothes home that I would be living here in the middle of the very rainy season at around 5,000 feet! Needless to say, it´s been a bit damp and dreary for the last few weeks, which actually has been good for my studies and personal time. I am nearly constantly chilled and spending a lot of time in the sauna, preparing for a balmy Seattle summer to warm me up!

That said, I did have a mystical experience the other day. The weather, being quite moody, brings with it a lot of thunder and lightning storms. This one was special... there was not a cloud in the night sky, the air was warm, the stars were shining, and lightning was flashing. A magical silence hung.

Before I came to San Marcos, I took a tour of a fantastic organization in Guatemala City called Safe Pasages. A couple of my friends here were volunteering there for an extended period of time, and I wanted to see what it was all about. WOW. It was started by an American woman around 12 years ago because she (then 25 years old!) was visiting Guatemala and wanted to see the ¨real¨ Guatemala. She went to the local garbage dump and watched in amazement as thousands of very poor Guatemalans work there, salvaging through the rubbish to find anything of value. An average salary for them in this filthy life is around $2-3 US per day. So she started Safe Passage in order to support the children of these families so that they would have a safe place to go during the day. It started with 40 kids, and now has over 800. It is a professionally-run, wonderful organization and I would love to come back some day and volunteer myself! Next trip...

I can honestly say that before I came to Guatemala I was wondering why I had chosen this place, so far from everywhere else that I would be traveling, to close my trip. I was questioning my ïnstincts¨ that had led me here in the first place. Now that I am here, I know without a doubt that this is exactly where I am supposed to be right now! Guatemala´s magical pull that got me back here (I first visited for 3 weeks in 1993) was just the magic I needed.

With love,
Pam

Roosters, Turtles & Other Blessings

At 1:00 in the morning the roosters had started crowing already. Don´t they know what time it is or do time zones affect these things? I lie awake, and somehow find happiness listening to the song of the day yet to come.

I´m living in San Antonio Aguas Calientes about 15 minutes outside of Antigua, Guatemala with a wonderful woman and her extended family in their guest house. (Above is the view of my deck, with the volcanoes hiding behind the clouds.) As I´ve discovered and experienced, in most of the world families support each other, live together, work together, cook together, eat together, and often sleep in the same room as each other. This family, though poor by American standards, has one of the richest collective lives that I´ve ever witnessed. Four generations of the family live in one house, with four bedrooms. They care for each other in a way that I envy, with genuine love and concern for each others well being. Great grandma is cooing and cuddling her 9 month old grandson while the in-between generations prepare the meal, feed the animals, do the morning´s dishes, sweep the floors and wash the laundry. I´ve been invited to stay with this family indefinitely, though my schedule will only permit one week at this time, unfortunately.

It´s such a striking contrast to life in the States. Which way would I prefer? What is better? It´s just too difficult, and frankly impossible, to compare cultures in that way, but it does make me think that they have figured out a way of living that the Western world needs to embrace

Yesterday I spent the day participating in the family life, and then receiving a tour through the lovely old town by my family´s two nieces, Eugenia and Mariela. We had a lovely afternoon enjoying ice cream, and teaching each other our native languages. In the evening I helped prepare a delicious dinner of fish, beans, tortillas, rice and salad. We all ate together at one table, as we do for each meal. The conversation is lively (all in Spanish) and the laughter is hearty. Above is Lidia, my Guatemalan mama, and below are my tour guides.

I spent a week in Costa Rica, with Joanie and a few other friends from the states. We had a great time, and it was so good to catch up with mi mejor amiga! Of all the fun things, we did the best will be no surprise to anyne who knows me...we got to go on a Leatherback turtle patrol at Estacion Las Tortugas (the project that Parsons PR has been involved with for more than 6 years) and help to midwife the births of more than 200 baby turtle eggs. We were also lucky enough to be there to see the hatchlings (tortuguitas) before they began their courageous journey to the sea. Our timing was perfect! The weather held out, and the turtles came out to play...magical!

We also had a few other pretty fantastic wildlife sightings including a mamma sloth with her baby eating about 20 feet or less directly above our heads, and a wild boar (think of Pumba!) with a slight disability who was disowned from his clan and had taken up friendship with tourists. Oh, and I got to hold a toucan and the largest (thankfully dead) beetle known to mankind. Eeeewwwww..........

This is my Spanish teacher Aura, who's been teaching me the beautiful language for four weeks in a row now, eight hours per day. Me gusta mucho este idioma!

Every single day, as I have been doing for several years, when I crawl into bed at night I allow my final thoughts before passing into sleep to count the day´s blessings in addition to those of my life. I am grateful that my life is so rich, and that this nightly tradition seems to take me longer each day. Life in Guatemala is keeping me up for more than one reason!

With love,

Pam